Along the medieval pilgrims' route from Salzburg to Santiago de Compostela, with my dog Finny.
Tuesday, November 10, 2015
Le Puy-en-Velay.
I have arrived in Le Puy, with its spectacular chapel perched on a cliff. This is my halfway point, and I will celebrate with a few extra posts. I am relieved to be out of Isère - heavy industry, breeze block houses, nuclear power plant and vinagery Rhône wines. Haute-Loire (Auvergne) is far preferable. Over these past few cloudless days I have followed dappled fairytale pathways up to the highest point (Rafay, 1276m), then down over gentle hills punctured by the rocky outcrops of ancient volcanos. Here are solid houses of authoritative rocks, slate roofs, and faded blue-grey shutters. Pleasing.
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